Planning a Multi-Day Hike in the Dolomites: All You Need To Know
When to go, what to pack, and THE BEST, tried and tested mountain hut tips
It was October 2022. My ex had just broken up with me a little over a month prior. I moved out of our flat in central Amsterdam and went back home to my mountainous region of Italy, feeling defeated by life. Before the mountain huts season ended for the winter, I decided to take myself on a solo, meditative hike. I needed to flush some thoughts out of my system, I needed the solace of nature, I needed vistas, and inspiration, and solitude — of the restorative type.
On my chosen day, I set off into a cloudy, damp, but fairytale-like kind of valley, and three releasing hours of fast-paced, steep hike later, I saw my destination in the distance.
My tranquil, little refuge for the night by a secluded and secretive alpine lake. As I walked the final stretch, I felt so at one with the solemnity of the environment. I was ready for transcendence to wash over me…
Except…
As I got closer, the blasting music hinted at a slightly different atmosphere from the one I had envisioned. I arrived to find about 90 other people chattering away by the bonfires, and enthusiastically clapping at the approaching HELICOPTER that was delivering an elegant-looking, fur-wearing sommelier, and several boxes of champagne and other liquid goodness. It was a degustation event, in which each gourmet course was paired with a wine.
Let’s just say, I was glad I had decided to pack my fancier-looking Rab jacket, rather than the crappy, ancient, deformed Quechua.
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, gone are the days of smelly rooms lined with snoring masses on bunk beds… Well, no, actually those days are very much not over. Still, they are part of the convivial, rustic charm of a multi-day hike through the Dolomites — which on occasion, can even become quite the glamorous affair.
Getting to the Dolomites
Here is where your character will begin to get tested. There is no super easy way to get to the Dolomites from abroad, but I promise, your courage and perseverance will be rewarded.
By car
This is of course the easiest option. Head to either the towns of Trento, if coming from the South, from Italy, or Bolzano/Bozen, if driving from the North, from Austria. Now, the Dolomitic range covers a large area, so you have some options as to where you can go. (And technically, they also reach the Veneto region, but I intend to stay in denial about that — there is ONE, beautiful, perfect region the Dolomites are associated with, and it ain’t Veneto.)
My very biased opinion is to start from the Val di Fassa (Fassa Valley). It is in the Trentino province but conveniently located so that you can reach it from both Trento and Bolzano in about the same amount of time, a little over an hour of hairpin bends. It serves as the perfect gateway to the Rosengarten Massif, which is just the most scenic set of mountains ever, famous for turning pink at sunrise and sunset, through a spell cast by the King of Midgets, Laurin, following a love disappointment. True story.
Not all areas in the Dolomites are accessible from both Trento and Bolzano: the Brenta Dolomites, for instance, can be reached more easily from the Trentino side of the region.
By public transport
Good luck with that. Fine, technically, it is not impossible. If you are flying, the closest airports are Verona in Italy and Innsbruck in Austria. Venice is also not too far but in a very not ideal type of way — but can be a good option if you want to add a few extra days and visit the city.
From all of these cities, you can grab a train again to the towns of Trento if coming from the South, so from Italy, or Bolzano/Bozen, if coming from the North, from Austria. What is good to know is that these locations are also served by the much better-managed OBB and Deutsche Bahn, the Austrian and the German train lines, which are faster as they don’t stop in every single, tiny village.
If you are in for the whole experience and get yourself on a Trenitalia train, get a Freccia (marked with “FR”, great and fast but very expensive, book in advance!), or at the very least a Regionale Veloce (marked “RV”), which will also skip a good amount of forgettable villages.
From Trento or Bolzano/Bozen, you will need a bus to reach your final destination — which is usually a valley at, let’s say, around 1400 above sea level, from which you can start your hike.
Deutsche Bahn booking page (they partner with OBB, and also Trenitalia. If you want to take one of these trains, check the ones marked “EC”)
Trentino Trasporti (bus timetables from Trento) — I find the UX on here challenging, you may be better off with Google Maps, but double-check as sometimes the timetable on Google Maps is not accurate.
SASA (bus timetables from Bolzano)
Hiking in the Dolomites — When To Go
Time of year
You can go hiking in the Dolomites any time of the year. But huts are only open over the summer, from mid to end of June to mid-October.
Off-season, they do have winter houses that remain open for excursionists. But they are unheated and unmanaged. Which, in practice, means they stink, practically and metaphorically. There also tends to be a lot of snow and I would not recommend going off-season unless you are a seasoned mountain expert, and you are traveling with your skiing gear. I know of one hut that is open (meaning, managed) during the winter (although not continuously), and it is only accessible via alpine skiing.
At the beginning and the end of the huts’ opening season, they are a little quieter. But if you go on weekends, and during July, August, and through mid-September, you will need to book — and possibly a few months in advance, especially if you travel with a group.
Weekdays and weekends
During the busier months, I would try to go on weekdays as weekends can become quite crazy and reminiscent of black Friday sales. But also fun, as you do meet a lot of people.
When to arrive — time of the day
Get in early. On arrival, your first priority will be claiming your bunk bed (also, check out the shower section). The best beds go quickly. Check-in early, as early as you can, and RUN to make sure you have options. Anywhere that doesn’t have a lot of traffic, so away from the bathrooms and doors, and perhaps not too far from a socket will be a winner.
You do not want to arrive too late also as dinner is often served at 6 PM, pretty much on the dot, and they are pretty strict — so be on time or go to bed on an empty stomach. From 6 PM and on is partaaaaay but lights out by around 10 PM. If that “mirtillino” (blueberry liquor, or are you more of a hay grappa kind of person? Or “nocciolino”, hazelnut, perhaps?) is still hitting the spot, and you want to keep chatting to that cute Norwegian you sat across at dinner, you can still do so — outside, quietly.
Hiking in the Dolomites: Money Matters
You can pay by card nearly everywhere. That said, it can be clunky and/or out of service from time to time, so keep some cash for good measure.
Depending on which route you are taking, you may also need cash for the shuttle services — small vans that take you from and to the valley, to and from the starting or ending point of the hike. Most of these won’t take cards and can cost around 10 euros per person.
When you go to a mountain hut’s website, you may notice that there are two price points. One is for CAI members, the other is for everyone else. The CAI is the Italian Alpine Club, the membership of which offers a variety of benefits, including discounts at mountain huts, but also insurance. I am not sure whether you can become a member from abroad, and the membership involves paperwork in Italian. But if you are interested, get in touch and I can find out.
Speaking of insurance, good idea!
Hiking in the Dolomites: Sleeping in a Mountain Hut
What to pack for a night at a mountain hut
You want to pack as lightly as possible. This is what my backpack looks like, starting from the top:
- Warm clothing: as you arrive, unless you arrive in the middle of a beautiful July or August day, you will get chilly. I always bring a fleece, but also a puffy jacket that packs small and that protects me a little from rain and wind, a scarf, and a hat or cap. A light jacket will do for most of the season, but at the beginning or towards the end, you may need a warmer one. It was snowy when I last went in October, and it drizzled snow once also in mid-August on a particularly high section of a hike. Nothing worse than hiking against freezing wind and snow without proper gear.
- Sunscreen of a higher protection factor than what you normally use, as mountain sun can get mean.
- Flip flops: the first thing you will want to do is to remove your hiking shoes, so having flip flops is going to be heaven. There are slippers available at the huts as they don’t allow you to walk around with your dirty, filthy hiking boots. But yuck — bring your own. No, of course not, they do not wash them. Flip flops are the best in my opinion, they pack super small, are very light, and you can use them in the shower.
- A small towel, of those that packs small and dries quickly
- A change of socks, underwear, walking shirt (one of those you can wash up and dries quickly), and anything you may need to sleep into.
- Sleeping bag liner: mountain huts will have bedding and blankets or duvets, but you will need (and want) your own liner.
- Toilet kit — the bare minimum, soap is usually available, so no need for the extra weight!
- Phone charger, head torch, and a small first aid kit — just in case.
- Plastic bags for garbage (you need to bring it with you down to the valley), and for wet clothing, just in case.
- Sleeping mask and earplugs — if that’s your thing!
Shower: tried and tested tips
Yes, you can shower. If you do want to get a shower in and go just before dinner, it is only going to be you and just about EVERYONE else.
I try to arrive at my next hut by 2 or 3 PM at the latest, and shower immediately. That’s also a good time to wash up your walking shirt, socks, and underwear, and give them some time to dry up!
Warm water is often coin-operated and lasts 2 minutes, so plan a washing strategy ahead of time. I can wash up in the first 45 seconds, and enjoy a full 1 minute and 15 seconds of pure hot water bliss. There is usually a display on which you can check how long you have left.
It is great fun to pass by the showers just before dinner time to hear the several screams as amateurs misuse their 2 minutes and are surprised by a frozen jet mid-soap! 😈
Also, most huts do have warm water but don't count on it. Some don’t and sometimes it does not work. If it comes down to it — this is it. Your chance to Wim Hof the heck out of that shower.
The social component
Don't be weird: Talk to people, don’t be weird. The mountain environment is a social one. Smile and wave at people on the path, attempt a “grüß Gott” or “salve,” and be ready to chat at dinner, you will be most likely seated at a large table with a bunch of other people from all over the world.
The fact no one is looking fancy, wearing makeup, and Birkenstock and socks is not frowned upon, not even a little, means it is one of those rare places in which you can truly…talk. To people. Like for real. And laugh. And let your guard down. Take advantage!
Final Tips
Will your phone work? Huts in the Dolomites have Wi-Fi and decent phone reception throughout. There will be sections of your hike in which you do not have a signal, but they will be more the exception than the rule.
Don't be stupid. Though the Rosengarten and the Dolomites in general, are full of easy, approachable itineraries, make sure you pay attention. The mountain doesn’t forgive. I have seen very, very bad accidents. Hike sober, pay close attention to the path and each and every step you take, and always prioritize safety. The weather can change suddenly, so make sure you check.
Alpine Rescue: check out their website, they also have an app that you can use that has a geolocation functionality. We have some of the best alpine rescue teams around, many operated by incredible volunteers who know these mountains inside and out and are even able to climb up in the fog and instruct people on how to get to safety.
Questions? Leave a comment or get in touch! I used to work in one of these huts, so I know my way around.
